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mark_ivan

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Posts: 8
Reply with quote  #1 
Hello

I recently received three nice Dayan shells from my school.

I have reheaded one (my first go at reheading!) and it sounds pretty good so far.

The second I want to rehead has a sizeable knot in the wood (about 1.5" in diameter) in the wall of the dayan at the base of the hollowed section.

There are small radial cracks in the knot, and when I put a flashlight inside the shell, I can faintly see light coming through.

What should I use to fill the cracks and seal this air leak?

Wood filler? Epoxy? Sawdust and glue? Duct tape?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Mark
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Acelga

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Posts: 215
Reply with quote  #2 
Wood filler didn
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hbajpai

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Posts: 892
Reply with quote  #3 
Wood filler works for me every time. You have apply very liberally. Shove it in there with a blade and them smear all over. After it's dry, sand it. Be sure to follow the drying time. What I don't like about it is that it is not really stainable. It does not absorb the stain well. Painting them works. There are two basic types. Plastic based (DAAP) or some plastic based (Minwax). Plastic based is more durable. For me, it is less messier than epoxy or epoxy and saw dust paste. I believe the latter is what they typically use in India.
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mark_ivan

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Posts: 8
Reply with quote  #4 
IMG_0130b.jpg IMG_0133b.jpg Thanks for your replies.

I just photographed the crack, and I have to admit, it's a bit underwhelming in size, but as I said, with a small light inside the shell, and some wiggling about, I can faintly see some light coming through.

Didn't want to ignore it and find out after reheading that it should have been attended to, and if I fill it, I wanted to ensure that I used something that wouldn't expand and contract at different rates than the shell while moving from warm to cold'ish temperatures (I am in Canada and winter's coming) making the cracks worse over time.

Asked around here and heard:
- wood filler
- wood shavings and carpenter's glue
- sawdust and superglue

Still debating whether I should pull a few loose hanging wood bits out of the inside of the shell and glue them into the cracks, or use wood filler.

....yes I do get decision paralysis for some incredibly small issues :roll:

Thanks again for the advice.

Cheers,
Mark

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LotusMonster

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Posts: 18
Reply with quote  #5 
In Banaras some makers use sawdust mixed with white glue and others use wood putty.

If you are going to go the sawdust route, makers will "refine" the saw dust by rubbing it through a cloth so that only the finest particles are used to make the paste. This ostensibly makes it less likely to re-crack because the gaps between particles of sawdust within the mixture are much smaller.

I'm not telling you what to do, but just thought I'd add to the conversation.
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mark_ivan

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Posts: 8
Reply with quote  #6 
The dayan pictured above has held up well with wood filler, used a toothpick to poke the filer into the cracks as far as possible, from both the inside and outside.

The filler that I used (Elmers I believe) did pick up the colour of stain 'a bit' and as I started with a mahogany coloured putty it is pretty inconspicuous under the straps and gatta.

Out of the shells that I've had an opportunity to work on since my original post, some have had larger cracks (up to 1/4"), but only one has 'recracked' after filling with putty.

Filtering the sawdust sounds like a great idea, I now regret putting a couple of totally destroyed shells out for garbage (when the local tabla school moved locations and needed to do a clean-up, there were some orphan dayan shells).
Should have kept these 'total write-off' shells to make shisham sawdust for the glue/sawdust paste method of filling cracks.

Once again I am likely getting too caught up in minutiae, the type of wood the sawdust is from is probably not a big deal.

Next need a good bayan (the one I have doesn't resonate very well) might take a shot in the dark and try one of Upendra's 3.5 or 4.5 kg copper bayans, we'll see.

Oh, one more thing.
After reheading about a dozen drums now, mostly with rawhide tasma, I LOVE SYNTHETIC STRAPS, minimal stretch, no breakage, easy as pie to lace on a new head, and stays in tune longer once set up,
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LotusMonster

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Posts: 18
Reply with quote  #7 
Since the amount of sawdust you would need is so small, you could easily take some from the interior of the drum, particularly the floor without affecting the sound too adversely, but you are right, I doubt the type of wood that you would use would have much effect at all.
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