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coyootie

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Posts: 490
Reply with quote  #1 
the piece of spanish cedar i got for this tabli was barely wide enough, but nice stuff, and the grain orientation is like most sitars i've examined: the grain sort of follows the arch of the tabli.
after planing the face down to a smooth shallow arch, it's flipped over and the gouging of the underside starts. My most heartfelt thanks to Tony Karasek who generously shared his thickness measurements from a Kanai Lal tabli he'd preserved. this is crucially important data to try to get a good working tabli happening here! sitar tablis are carved out like a violin sorta,but there is an integral raised ridge down the center. this is interesting because of the way tablis are fit to the neck at a slight angle-to put the bridge a little more in the center of the tabli- but this means that the ridge is just slightly farther under the bass side of the bridge.
i'm orienting this tabli a bit differently than usual to enable the flat plane of the top to line up with the neck, which will also be flat. this is the way some older sitars were done and their sound is wonderful, so this is what i'm going after in terms of finished sound-product.the fit of the tabli/tumba to the gulu section is going to be challenging so i will hold my breath when i get to that bridge.
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Sitarfixer

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Reply with quote  #2 
Glad those tabli specs were of use. From the pics, it looks like you're coming along nicely. In fitting this tabli to the neck, you state you will angle the neck a bit (top view) to accomodate the strings alignmemt with the center of the tabli - great. An unfortunate engineering necessity which slaps at design symetry but there you have it. I highly recommend you also angle down the tabli a few degrees from the neck as seen eyeballing down the surface plane. This will create the need for slightly longer bridge legs from the onset. However, once the finished instrument has settled in and the neck has arched up a bit (they all do it), you will have breathing room to lower the bridges to a proper position for best string height. The real plus here is that the taraf strings won't be dangerously close to the under side of the frets. I've had quite a few heated discussions regarding this tabli angle issue with the shop rats in Miraj. The fret clearance item finally sold the deed. Also, thickness measurements aside, how does the tabli sound by itself ??? Knuckle tap testing is vital. Tap on that beast all over the surface. Any dead sounding thumps need to be shaved just a bit.
I'm realising I've got uncountabajillion questions to ask you and an equal amount of suggestions. I'll just shutup now! Enjoy the project. Thanks much for the progress pics.

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coyootie

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Reply with quote  #3 
ANY and ALL suggestions/questions from your esteemed and way more experienced self, always welcome!!! fire away Tonewallah.
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AbdulLatif

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Reply with quote  #4 
Yo Baba Yaga, very nice, a real treat for a rank amatuer luthier like myself. All praise to you also for your generosity in sharing your knowledge with us all. Refreshing and hopefully a new direction for all aspects of ICM. "The best among us are those with the most knowledge" Anon
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"Words are said to have a delusive nature (Mahamaya Matrika) because the word itself, although it may contain a reference to an object is often surrounded by clusters or Kulas of lesser Shaktis...."
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coyootie

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Reply with quote  #5 
your encoragement is much appreciated! hopefully we all get something extra outta this, if it helps to understand how sitars work- or how they can work better- i'll be satisfied.
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